a

Beginner Guide // How To Build FPV Drone 2019

so today I'm gonna be showing you how to

build a cinematic drone now I'm also

gonna make this as a beginner's guide so

I'm gonna cover the details as fast as

possible and help you understand what

everything does and why it does that now

the idea here is to build a cinematic

drone that does not require a GoPro such

as this one right here now this is the

same exact frame this is from daya tones

called the GTR something I have it

linked down below this is the 4s version

and this is what I'm currently flying

right now this is the thing that I flied

the most currently I really love it it's

efficient affordable and the components

are readily available so if you ever

burned something you're easily gonna

find it and in their budget components

which is really great and it performs

like a high-end quadcopter because it is

a high-end quadcopter however don't let

the budget fool you here so this is a

really great little beast that I'd

highly recommend also if you didn't want

to build your own so now let's take a

look at the components and then start

building alright so here we have the

diatone frame and for the flight

controller in esc what we're gonna be

using is the f7 - - mini and again

everything here is linked down below now

the flight controller is basically the

brain and the ESC is the thing that

controls the motors or allows the power

to go to the motors so this is the

flight controller the ESC is currently

inside the quadcopter right here so I've

already just set it up there to make my

life a little bit easier and this is the

way I recommend doing a build I like to

approach the build with starting out

with the wires that connect to the

flight controller which we'll cover in a

bit for VTX I've decided to go with the

rush tank VTX I want to try this one in

the real world and it should do pretty

good because everybody speaks so highly

of and again it's linked down below it

takes an MMC export which is really

great because we can use antennas such

as this one here and we don't have to

have anything sticking out of the quad

for receiver what's gonna allow me to

control the quadcopter I'm using an XM +

+ FR Sky XM plus it's a really cheap

really great and they do a pretty good

range as well I think I've gone around

three kilometers of range on this so

this is they're really great for camera

this is where it gets interesting now

they've recently this camera has been

released called a cat X tracer I haven't

tested it myself I've seen a couple

videos online but this is gonna be my

test for the cat X trays are here and

what this does is it'll allow you to

record 4k footage and 1080p footage and

also broadcast it down to your goggles

video feed which is something really

great and it'll save a lot of weight

without adding that GoPros like I showed

you before I think it's gonna be great

hopefully the quality is good as well

and time will tell here now for motors

motors are pretty interesting here

motors I'm using the T motor f40 2400 KB

this is a 4s built and the reason why I

like these motors is because they are

really really efficient and really

really powerful however there's a little

twist um as you can tell her there's no

prop nut and it has these little circles

well these are the Popo edition and this

makes your life a lot easier in my

opinion they're a bit more expensive but

it does make your life a lot easier for

example adding a propeller you know it's

it's super simple you just drop it on

get something kind of small just push

that middle part slide it in and just

twist it until you see that thing pop

back up and now this thing is secured

into place and if you want to remove it

just push that little button in twist

the motor a little bit and then it'll

stay down like that and then you can

just easily pull it out just like this

which is really great I really like that

it's gonna make my life a lot easier in

the field and after a while you'll come

to appreciate this little feature here

because it's just such a time saver and

it's just really nice to have for quick

prop changes now if you're planning on

getting serious into drone building I'd

highly recommend this tool even if not

this tool just comes with every single

hex driver you're gonna need these for

usually we use 1.5 to 2.5 and 3

millimeter but you're mostly going to be

using the 1.5 and 2 millimeter and

what's really nice is easily drop that

on in the field this is a must-have and

it just takes such a small amount of

space which is just less gear to carry

along with you and these are titanium

coated and I've been using it for quite

a while now which I highly recommend so

I'll have everything here again linked

down below alright so let's get started

here the first step I like to do is

start soldering up the camera wires here

and this is the currently the camera

wire that came with the camera and

usually they're all color-coded exactly

the same red is going to be the 5 volt

ground is going to be the black is going

to be the ground and the yellow usually

is the video feed here and all I have to

do is strip them twist them and add some

solder to them now let's go ahead and

find camera 5 volt in ground and if we

take a look at this little board here we

see we have 5 volt ground in camp right

there so those are going to be on the

top 3

right here so 5 volts gonna be the red

wire all right so I like to just add

solder on there first before anything

now this can be a little bit tricky

because they are pretty tiny okay you

want to make sure they don't touch each

other that's looking pretty good alright

so first we see we have 5 volt now 5

volt is going to be all the way at the

edge right here now I'm right-handed so

I highly recommend you start with the

left side because if you have the

soldering iron then it's just going to

be easier to go like this instead of

solder here and then try to get to the

other side so right now this is going to

be 5 volts so I'm gonna heat up the pad

and then I'm just gonna bring in the

wire and then just drop it into place

and that looks great next we have ground

which is going to be the block wire here

I'm just gonna hold it into place make

sure it's gonna go in just nice I'm

gonna heat up the pad first and then

kind of bring in the wire and then just

press on the wire once and then it's

into place and that's great right there

next we have the cam which is going to

be the video feed so and again I'm gonna

do that same technique I'm just gonna

heat up the pad make sure you're

comfortable before you do this because

the last thing you want is to get solder

on any of the other components on the

board here so also pre check it now this

is very far away from me so yeah but

it's looking really great and I also

like to twist these wires it keeps them

pretty clean now if you notice this

little extra wire this is a remote

control for that camera because

obviously it has some extra features

it's still the same basic concept red

block yellow that's it which is red is 5

volt black is ground and the yellow is

the video all right so this next up here

it might be slightly tricky because

we're gonna connect the VTX which is the

video transmitter that's gonna transmit

the live video feed and if we bring in

the wire here we see that we have 4 we

have a yellow red black and white now

why do we have that well one of them is

something called Smart audio which will

allow you to change the channel and

power that you're broadcasting on

through the on-screen display in your

quadcopter which here it's going to be

the yellow wire which I don't know why

they did that color coding but yeah you

can easily usually figure that out from

the instruction manual and if we also

grab the video transmitter itself and we

plug in this wire into place and flip it

upside down we're gonna it'll actually

tell us what wire does what so we see

the first one is D

see which means battery voltage very

important then the next one is ground as

you can tell it's black and sa is smart

audio which is the the system that allow

you to change your channel and what what

power you're broadcasting at and then as

you can tell that last one right here is

the video so yeah you could sort a

direct to these but I prefer to go ahead

and say it and this thing also has a

five volt regulator in ground for a

camera but we're not going to be using

that because we're using the power from

right here and that's why we took the

five volt and ground from here now here

it's slightly tricky which is really

nice because it gives you a little idea

of what could happen so it says 5 volt

ground TX 3 + VT X now you might think

this is really convenient to connect

your video transmitter because look VT X

is right there which is the video feed

TX 3 that's where your smart audio would

go and then ground on 5 volt but then

you have to remember this doesn't take 5

volt it takes more it takes battery

voltage so we'll have to do is we'll

connect the ground TX 3 VT X here but

then the red wire we're gonna come all

the way to something called VCC here

because that'll give it the battery

voltage and that would be this little

pin right here so let's go ahead and do

that together so I'm gonna go ahead and

remove the connector here and we're

gonna add solder to these so here's the

VCC this is going to be the battery

voltage that's what's gonna apply power

or give power to that VT X right there

as you can tell VCC right here and this

is VCC and then next we have ground TX 3

+ VT X so we're gonna skip one we're

gonna skip down because that's 5 volt

and we're not gonna need that because

we're taking it from that corner but

we're gonna need those three right there

okay so I'm gonna trim these make them a

little bit smaller okay so we said we're

gonna skip 5 volts so let's go to ground

which is going to be the black wire here

so we skip 5 volt we're gonna go to

ground you can get a little bit

difficult especially if you're far away

like me trying to record everything

okay so we have our ground into place

just double-checking because it's really

far alright next we have TX three which

for this one is gonna be yellow usually

the yellow is the video or the VTX or

whatever you want to call it or the

video output they would call it but here

for some reason it's the smart audio so

it's gonna go to the TX now the TX three

is basically it means like USB port

three on the flight controller usually

you have a couple of those and yeah

that's what you're taking advantage now

there's usually an Rx three and a TX 3

and the T is always to transmit and the

R is to receive so if you want this to

receive something you'd put it on the R

if you want to send something you'd put

it on the T because it transmits and

this is gonna transmit the information

to the VTX to change the channel and all

these types of crazy good stuff now the

next wire over is going to be the V TX

which is going to be the video output

for some reason it's white usually white

is smart audio but always just double

check your documentation so let's put

this guy into place here and everything

looks great now the last one is going to

be the power which we said we needed

battery voltage which we're gonna take

from that corner right there which we

currently saw that one right there VCC

so that's what we're gonna place that

guy I like to heat up the pad first and

then bring in the wire and just squeeze

it on and looks great

so now we've finished our camera and

we've also finished our VTX here and

it's really good to always double check

especially when they're this small

usually they're not this small this is

because this is a small board it's

twenty by twenty board so now the last

thing we have to do to this is just

basically connect our receiver and we're

almost done it's it's really that simple

with these that's what's really nice so

here for the receiver this is gonna be

ground this is gonna go to five volt and

this is gonna go to the S bus so it's

very important here so if we look back

at our if you want to call it a manual

we see ground 5 volt ppm s bus now we're

gonna have to go to s bus 5 volt and

ground and it's very important if you

have a bus like a fly sky you would also

connect it here on the S bus but only if

it's an f7 if it's not an f7 and you

have AI bus then you'd want to connect

it to an art that's not being used for

example here we have our 5 RX 5 that's

where you'd want to connect it and in

the u Arts in the port's tab in beta

flight you'd want to set that up as

serial Rx and as time goes on you'll get

to understand that it sounds a bit

complicated but it's just a couple

things you have to do which you'll end

up remembering so let's add solder we

needed the ground so this is going to be

ground right here and then we also

needed 5 volt and we also needed s bus

which is this one here all right ok

great

all right so I got myself a pair of

tweezers here it's gonna make my life a

little bit easier and it'll make your

life easier as well make sure your

forearms are rested on the edge of the

table and this is so far I think I just

bridge two together that's fine that's

all seating a bit right now so I'm just

gonna double check this because it's

really far yeah so right now I bridge

the 5-volt in ground and that could be a

nightmare right there so what I'm gonna

do is I'm just gonna remove both of them

here there we go and then we can just

you know scrape it off like that

and then usually that'll be good because

I try to solder on top of the ground

because I couldn't see it there we go so

that's gonna go right here

in a nice technique is when you see the

tip of the soldering iron look like this

okay we'll move that away never saw it

on top of the flight controller because

it could just drop a couple so just add

some solder to it let it just you know

sit for a while and then just clean it

off and then you want it to always look

shiny and clean so now for the flight

controller we're basically done we have

our VTX we have our camera we have a

receiver and then to connect this to the

ESU it was really nice as you have this

little connector which would go in here

and then it'll connect to the esc which

we'll get into that step just in a tiny

bit now all right so now let's go ahead

and prepare the ESC as you can tell we

have our power pads here and then we

should have six pads on each side we

have six pads here and six pads here

because each motor has three wires as

you can tell right there so now I'd like

to start by adding the solder to the

pads here and usually with bigger ASCS

if it's a good one

then it beeped sometimes it's a little

bit difficult to add solder to the

ground pad because the the boards heat

dissipation would be really great and

the ground this is just basically all

over the board sorry I don't just take

your time doing this you can tell us a

nice little blob right here see right

now we just got to the ground and it's

getting really really tough that means

this board has really great heat

dissipation okay

that looks good and move the tip just

very carefully away you don't want to

burn or you don't want to drop any

solder splatter you don't want any

solder to splatter on any other

components all right now we're just

gonna start by adding more solder I'm

gonna skip over this I'm just adding

solder to the motor pads here okay now

now we have solder everywhere so next

step is I'm just gonna grab my power

here this is my xc60 I've also added low

sr capacitor now it's really important

to add these low ESR capacitor whether

it be right here or on the xc60 itself

however I decided to solder it directly

here it's really great for reducing

noise and if you don't know where to

pick up some of these I'll have some

link down below which are a must have

here so now we want to do is let's go

ahead and start with the positive

because the positive is much easier this

so now I'm just gonna heat up the pad

again first make sure it heats up really

well usually if you're having a really

hard time I'd highly recommend you would

increase the temperature so increasing

the temperature does help sometimes and

I might do that right now actually

well increase it to make my life easier

so I'll increase it to 450 degrees or

430 degrees so it's for 440 degrees

Celsius and I'm using lead solder with

flux core so it's really good to always

grab some tweezers with you and if it

gets kind of tough just come in hold

apply some pressure and then some add

some solder it would really help you can

get a really nice good connection here

so I'm gonna keep all these errors that

I'm doing here just so you could kind of

get an idea of how I go about fixing

most of them I know this one's not

really going into places I'd like it to

I'm just gonna keep the iron on top of

it and I'm gonna come in and just drop a

little solder usually that helps with

the heat transfer and it'll just sink

right in really nicely there we go try

not to move it for a while let it cool

down all right so we're gonna do one

motor together now each motor has three

wires and each side has six pads so you

know you put you divide it into four

because I've gotten a lot of messages

where people didn't know that divide the

board into four and wherever the three

pads are put one motor there put another

motor here another motor there another

motors there so every three pads put a

motor however this is where it kind of

confuses people how there's one all the

way in the corner so people just kind of

get lost but usually you will see like a

one two three four there's numbers also

on the board here so let's start with

this one right there and I highly

recommend you get some you know tweezers

here because this will be very very

difficult to accomplish without them

okay

hopefully that's good because I can't

see from far oh no this is metal no this

is plastic right here this these screws

are plastic so don't worry

all right so we got one into place and

I'm actually gonna go this route here

it'll probably make it look cleaner it's

really nice this way all right so again

I'm gonna heat up the pad and then I'm

bringing the wire and then push the wire

on top that crunching sound is the most

beautiful sound you'll hear while you're

soldering okay we're gonna do the same

thing to this one heat up the pad bring

in the wire beautiful there we go all

right really nice so now we have three

done as you can tell right here we'll

take a closer look at later I'll see how

I want to route these wires here but um

yeah that's one motor done so I'm gonna

do the same to the others and we'll come

back and we'll take it from there so we

want to do is want to find the back so

this is the back here as you can tell

usually and then these are numbered most

of the time and you'll tell you how to

install it so if we take a closer look

at the flight controller we see an arrow

that should point to the front of the

quadcopter and that's gonna connect

right here so let's go ahead and

actually we'll connect that in a bit

let's just drop this into place here and

really nice now as you can tell these

this is not something you would

typically do but this is what I came up

with in order to fit everything

especially with a 30 by 30 VTX because I

wanted a pretty powerful one and because

you know usually the bigger the more

powerful because they just have better

heat dissipation so theoretically they

be able to output more power for longer

because the heat gets dissipated because

only downfall to most of these things

are the heat dissipation here there we

go and now the the ESC or the motors are

connected straight to the flight

controller and the flight controller is

getting power here and this is really

great so now what we have is this is

going to be for the V T X right here and

this is our receiver and then this is

for the camera here so the cameras gonna

be connected in the front alright so

there we go I think I'm gonna leave the

receiver in the back here it looks

really great

and now what I'm gonna do see if you

want to take a side view here so the

v-tex

the receiver is gonna sit right here

this is still in the place now we're

gonna start adding everything so have

these spacers that also came with the

stack here or the Mamba f72 2 mini which

is also linked down below they provide

you with a lot of

parts in some spares also so I'm gonna

drop in these plastic pieces right now

all right so now the board's into place

how to do it off camera because it was

kind of a nightmare here but now what we

want to do is want to install the camera

wire and this wire is gonna stay here

later on this comes with a little remote

control that we could change the

settings for this guy since obviously

again has a lot of features here so I

want the VTX I want the MMC X to be on

the left side here maybe it's not really

a great idea because we have the SD card

here but we'll see that all right so now

the VTX is in two places you can tie it

there and I'm just gonna connect the

connector for it and there we go the

next thing we need is the antenna here

and it's really nice with these V T X's

they give you these rubber little o-ring

so we can add just like this and that'll

sit in the middle I guess it'll keep it

it'll dampen it somewhat but before

doing that what we need is we need that

3d printed piece that comes with the

frame itself here I'm just gonna drop

this through just like that and that'll

hold really really nicely so we got that

into place next okay great

alright so I've gone ahead and connected

the VTX also added the MMC X and now we

have a stack that looks like this with

the SD card fully visible the micro SD

card for the camera because you can

flush it and we also have the micro s

micro USB for the flight controller as

well down here very accessible and if we

ever wanted to change the settings we

can pull this wire out connect it over

I'll figure something really nice to do

with this wire here so it just doesn't

hang around because you could just pull

up over here and a propeller could just

smack it now for the receiver here what

I'm planning on doing is adding zip ties

in a way where it makes it like this and

then I just add some heat shrink on them

but I'll figure that out in a bit right

now and let's plug in the battery

hopefully nothing catches on fire and

I'll show you from there

that is beautiful

that is nice everything is running VTX

is running it's connected this is a

receiver running see yup its powering on

so we need to bind it an't

awesome alright guys so this is the

complete package currently so

everything's put together everything is

working I'm gonna go fly it right now

and the video footage will be out

tomorrow of its flight however I'll also

be doing a beta flight configuration

video just to help people out and doing

a bit more beginner friendly stuff

because I think a lot of people are I'm

getting ton of emails asking me all

kinds of questions so I'm guessing we do

have some new people in I want to make

sure I try to cover everything

especially with the latest stuff that we

have out right now so and again

everything is linked down below let me

know what you guys think down in the

comment section and I'll see you next

one peace out guys